Most gabion walls that fail were built badly, not designed badly. This is the sequence the Indian guideline sets out, step by step.
Gabions arrive folded flat in bundles with the lacing wire. Stack no more than four bundles high, on level ground, on wooden sleepers so the mesh and selvedge are not damaged. Keep them off oil, chemicals and abrasive surfaces.
Lace every edge in one continuous run, starting at a top corner, passing the wire through the mesh with alternate single and double loops at every mesh opening (roughly 100–125 mm). Secure the ends at the corners and turn them into the box.
Do not use short individual ties. Steel rings applied with a ring tool, as allowed by IS 16014, are the alternative. Adjacent boxes are laced to each other along every touching edge, top and bottom — the wall has to act as one mass.
Fold the lid down, lace it to the top of every side and diaphragm, and lace the next course of boxes to the one below. Joints in the course above should be staggered over the course below, like brickwork. Lay the filter geotextile against the back and place and compact the backfill as the wall rises.
You can check the filling by weight. At around 35% voids a packed gabion weighs roughly 1.7 tonnes per cubic metre, so a 1.5 × 1 × 1 m box should come to about 2.5 t. A box much lighter than that is loosely packed and will settle and bulge.
With lacing wire in a continuous run, alternating single and double loops at every mesh opening, along every touching edge — or with steel rings applied by tool. Never with short individual ties.
Usually because the internal tie wires were left out, cells were filled unevenly, or the stone was tipped in loose instead of packed. Diaphragms every metre also matter.
Yes, where the site cannot be dewatered. Sack gabions are often used for the parts that have to be placed below water.
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